Hot Water

The big thing to do on vacation in Japan, at least for older people like me, is to go to a Japanese hot bath. These places are known as Onsens. They range in variety from being an actual hole in the ground, to being attached to a fine and modern hotel, or often they are old fashioned smaller mom and pop establishments that offer nude public outdoor hot springs bathing, delicious meals, rooms in the Japanese style (tatami mats and no beds), and an opportunity to experience Japan the way it was before America invaded. The waters are typically fed by volcanic forces that provide a constant stream of hot, sulfuric, and mineral filled water. The baths are usually larger, like the size of a small swimming pool, but sometimes smaller.

By the way, unlike in America, there is no connection between these public baths and any sexual high jinx. The Japanese public baths seem to be family places, often used by the elderly who feel that the volcanic waters feeding the baths will offer some sort of medical treatment. Also, you never ever bring soap into the bath. You shower before and wash off the soap before using the public hot bath as a place to soak and relax.

We like the older fashioned places. The challenge for me, at times, is that the older fashioned places do not cater to or have signs readable by foreigners. Instead, these places use kanji, the Japanese and Chinese symbol based language. Is this the ladies bath or the men's or mixed? It took me years to figure out the kanji. The symbol for the ladies bath looks like it has crossed legs whereas the men's bath kanji symbol has a block head.

This year we visited one very old fashioned onsen built half way up a steep mountain. It was more camping style, but did offer simple meals along with outdoor baths that had a beautiful view. It was an isolated place that required a long drive up a mountain road or a 4 hour hike. We hitched a ride in with the owner's wife who met us at the local train station and then we hiked out.

I was the first in the family to head out to the hot bath. The outdoor bath was tiny, maybe 2 or 3 times the size of a home bath tub and I could not see a changing room. Oh well, the view was spectacular so I started to peel off my clothes. Suddenly, my wife was shouting to me to stop. Oh no!!!! I was about to strip and jump into the DOG'S bath. Yes, this place specialized in having a separate hot bath for pets. I had never seen or heard of such a thing before. Too bad I could could not read the kanji sign. It probably said something like "This bath is for pets and illiterate foreigners only. Do not enter unless you want to get fleas!"

A cultural boo boo that was narrowly averted. The bath for humans was up a flight of stairs that I had not noticed.